Leg 7, day 11 Tuscaloosa to New Orleans, Southernmost point on the trip.

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Confession: I did not go in with high expectations to University of Alabama, you know, Forest Gump and all that. But it really is fantastic! The school spirit, driven by the football team is unique. This brings about a special pride that permeates the whole school, truly impressive. I had a great conversation with Prof. Ana Corbalán, and it is clear they run a great PhD program. Rent is a joke compared to Boston. I’m very excited to apply!

Breakfast was the best coffee I’ve had in days at Chloe’s cup, another pleasant surprise.

After visiting T-mobile again to sort out some phone issues – Collin you are the man! It was back on Rocinante to New Orleans.

It was warm and pleasant, so the ride was very enjoyable. Unfortunately Rocinante started leaking some oil from the air intake, so I stopped at the closest dealer, by now in Mississippi, where I bought a new air filter and changed it. Big shout out to Bubba at Chunky River Harley-Davidson for letting me work on his beautiful parking lot! A few miles later I detected a bad burning smell. I was worried something was going wrong with the new air filter and was about to stop, when I turned a corner and saw a burning truck. Phew!

Although I was pressed for time I took some back roads in rural Mississippi, and boy was it worth it. The sweet smell of fresh cut hay, beautiful farms and homes, rolling hills, tiny villages. What a sunset! Unfortunately that meant a night approach into New Orleans.

Advice for traveling on the cheap: Stop at the state welcome centers when you enter a new state. They have coupons on great hotels.

So I am staying at the cutest hotel in NOLA. The Olde Towne Inn, in the French Quarter for forty Buckaroos! With locked parking for Rocinante.

I walked a little looking for a restaurant for dinner and to stretch my legs. I found a great bar/restaurant where I had a Veggie Po’Boy and met a Tulane grad student in social work, Lea and her roommate Laura who is applying for her PhD in Latin American studies also at Tulane. They participate in the online Couch Surfing program where you connect online with people and you get to crash on their couch. It is free and you get to meet interesting people, something to explore definitely. What a great conversation.

Tomorrow I am meeting  Sophie, a Tulane grad student in Spanish Lit who has volunteered to chat with me, God bless her. I can’t wait!

Leg 6, day 10 Atlanta to Tuscaloosa, Alabama (with new phone!)

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Quill Healy and I finally connected! I rode to his beautiful home this morning and we had a wonderful breakfast catching up and going down memory lane. He has a great family and has survived the real estate rollercoaster ride. Not patronizing but I’m really proud of him.

Emory was great! The campus is a perfect mix of quaint and modern, intimate and urban, impressive and cozy, I loved it! I had a very illuminating chat with Amy, the department coordinator, she is a professional, knowledgeable, caring and very nice person.

I checked my email at the Apple store in the Emory bookstore and ended up having a very interesting conversation with the manager.

Then it was Rocinante time all the way to Tuscaloosa. It was a sunny, not too hot a day, so it was a very enjoyable ride. Around lunch time I got off the highway expecting the usual roadside fare (bad Southern corporate cuisine) and instead found myself in a huge premium mall with top, top, brands. So lunch turned out better than expected at Sweet Bones Alabama. During lunch I found out I was on the Summit mall, serving suburban Birmingham AL.

When I arrived  in Tuscaloosa I found parts of the city still devastated by  April’s hurricane. In fact the T mobile store I went to pick up my phone is still in a trailer. Collin was phenomenal and had me set up in no time with my new phone, thanks.

I still had plenty of time to check out the town. The university is HUGE, by far the biggest I’ve ever seen. I’m excited for my meeting tomorrow!

Georgetown SC to Atlanta. Phone almost kaputt.

As the doctor says in The Prince’s Bride my phone is mostly dead, but not all dead. It randomly turns itself on and off. I’m looking forward to getting a new one tomorrow.

At any rate. After a marvelous week end at the Moon’s, I left this morning after mass. I was racing against severe storms moving in. I travelled for miles along deserted, except for folks going to church, back roads, until it started raining. I found some shelter off the road, under tree canopy cover. It was a sweet, soft rain. I made myself comfortable, lying back on Rocinante and took a short nap!

The second time it trained was on the highway, but it was hot and the sun was shining, so I pressed on.

The third and last rain came when I was in the Georgia Welcome Center. Big shout out to the girls there who were professional, sweet, funny and helped me get set up with the Georgia leg of my trip.

I’m excited to be in a big city. I love the energy and different people that make a city.

Unfortunately there was some confusion on the date of my arrival with my dear friend Quill, so I did not get to stay with him. I did, however, have time to ride around the Emory campus. It is beautiful and I can’t wait for my visit tomorrow!

Biblical downpours, soaked phone, and fried flounder. Leg 4 part II UNC to the Moon’s Georgetown South Carolina

Woke up to an overcast sky as I said goodbye to Oak Island at the great Russell’s diner. Loved Larry’s jokes, Heather’s service and my conversation with Cyndi. Then as soon as I left the restaurant, the rain started. That was the trend for the day: rain – stop at a gas station, empty porch, VW dealership (big shout out to Eastern VW in Myrtle Beach for hosting me!) – dry out – get on the bike – rain – start all over again. The last time I did this exercise I did not make it to a shelter in time as the sky opened up and poured on me. Apparently there was enough water in my pocket to mess with my phone… so… NO PHONE. I have set up to get it replaced on Tuesday in Tuscaloosa AL when I go by there. I finally made it to Bailey Moon’s beautiful 1700s house. They are the sweetest, most wonderful family. They are hosting me for the weekend. We had a great dinner of fried flounder at Big Tuna, a great breakfast, lunch, etc. etc. But even better is the conversation, the bonding, the company. Thanks Moon family!! Georgetown SC is the third oldest city in South Carolina (after Charleston and Beaufort) and it is a typical Southern, charming town, with small cafes, tree lined avenues, old houses, and great people.

Since I will not be able to post tomorrow or monday. Tomorrow I will leave Georgetown after mass and go to Atlanta Georgia, staying at my old friend’s Quill Healey’s. Monday I will visit Emory U and tuesday I should be in Tuscaloosa Alabama, where I will visit University of Alabama and hopefully pick up my new phone.

 

Until next time


, cheerio!

Day 6 University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill

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Loved, loved, loved UNC! I was received by the phenomenal Juan Carlos Gonzalez-Espitia, who introduced me to everyone, showed me the campus, down to the very American neoclassic wood columns!, and gave me the low down on grad school applications, life in Chapel Hill (free public transportation!), and grad school life in general. Loved it, loved it, loved it. Great people, great campus, great bagels, great everything.

From there I rode to Raleigh to have Rocinante checked out. After a few hundred miles, she starts loosing oil from the air intake. Huge shout to Nick at Ray Price Harley-Davidson who answered all my questions. Ray Price was a Harley racer and he has the best dealership I’ve ever seen and a museum (with the meanest Sportster I’ve ever seen). I had a coffee outside waiting for the checkup, chatting with a bunch of Harley old timers. It was somewhat unsettling that these regular guys had guns, on their belts, like cowboys.

After the great experience at Ray Price’s it was back roads all the way for five hours. It was one of the most beautiful rides ever. Horse farms, crops, the sweet smell of cow manure, rolling hills, flat tobacco crops, beautiful churches. I finally got to the seashore by taking a random turn ending up on Oak Island, a beautiful strip of beach with a sea turtle repoblation program. I’m staying in the most kitch hotel ever, The Blue Water Point Motel, straight out of an Almodovar movie. Before a great fresh fish dinner at the Fish House Restaurant I managed a great run on the beach!

Day 5, Duke (and recon. UNC Chapel Hill)

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A few things impress you about Duke, even before you get to Duke. First, it’s massive. Then the architecture is very cohesive (except all the new research buildings and hospitals). Unfortunately I could not get an appointment, but I had a wonderful chat with Denise Wilborn, the department coordinator. She gave me all sorts of great advice and maps, definitely the extra mile!

On my ride out of Duke I saw the Ronald McDonald House, so big shout out to my sister Rocky for working at Ronald McDonald House in Spain.

Brunch was at Elmo’s Diner downtown. Big shout out to Katie Gaddis for the awesome recommendation – scary how my students know exactly the food I like!

For the hottest part of the day I managed to stay cool catching up on the hotel’s computer, doing laundry, and enjoying the pool.

I managed to move up a day my appointment at UNC, so I am running a day fast which gives me extra time to enjoy my riding and I can take more back roads!

In the afternoon I rode to Chapel Hill twenty minutes away. It is beautiful. I can’t wait for my meeting tomorrow.

Leg 3, Day 4 Washington DC to Durham NC – Duke

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After a traditional Georgetown student breakfast at Booeymonger, I ventured to the office of the Spanish and Portuguese Department. I was inconceivably lucky and Prof. Alfonso Morales-Front, the Head of the Department happened to be in his office and received me. Now, I’ve been to a lot of important meetings and I’ve met very important people (which my modesty does not allow to mention here), but probably because I was not expecting to meet anyone I was really nervous, I thought my heart was going to explode out of my chest. At any rate we had a very nice chat and he was very positive and encouraging.

Then it was on Rocinante for the next eight hours! With breaks for water, bathroom, fuel, lunch, and navigation. Through Virginia and into North Carolina.

Having finally cleared the Northeast corridor, I took Historic route 1 and it was gorgeous: farms, forests, rolling hills, and many, many rivers. I also rode by two American institutions: Marine HQ in Quantico and the Philip Morris HQ in Richmond VA.

I am excited about Duke tomorrow, although again I do not have an appointment…

Why a PhD? Why El Quijote?

The first time I read Don Quixote was in the mid nineties, after much procrastination. It was a beautiful Akal edition which had been given to me by my dear friend Isabel years earlier.

It took me two years to finish it. There were two main feelings: the process of reading it. Seeing yourself learn, grow, laugh, cry, hold your breadth, and be totally inspired as you read it. And when you finish it: A phenomenal sense of accomplishment,  joy, sadness, some sort of post partum depression (not that I would know what that feels like, but it must be a little like that), and finally knowing that no book you will ever read again will come within miles of it.

After reading El Quijote, I couldn’t wait to read it again. So when the chance came up to take the Quijote class at Simmons I jumped at the opportunity.

The experience was everything I expected and then some. Prof. Louise Cohen drew the best out of the class, guiding us, suggesting paths to explore, encouraging us. Undeniably one of the best learning experiences of my life.

The only problem with all this, is that I am now addicted, hooked, and there is only one way of feeding this craving. A PhD.