Siddhartha, the Ohio River, and Jorge Manrique, the story of three rivers.

Are you fascinated by rivers? I am. In my first year of university, I spent the summer working and improving my French in Paris, and I spent countless hours absorbed by the Seine sitting by its side. A couple of summers later, in Geneva, I had to cross the Rhône every day, and again I was hooked. Maybe that is where my obsession comes from. Later, I would be equally enamored of the Danube, Tajo, Duero, Ebro, the Mississippi, Tiber, Guadalquivir, and, of course, Boston’s Charles River.

One of my favorite poems of all time is Jorge Manrique’s Coplas por la muerte de su padre, in particular the third stanza:

Nuestras vidas son los ríos

que van a dar en la mar,

que es el morir:

allí van los señoríos,

derechos a se acabar

y consumir;

allí los ríos caudales,

allí los otros medianos

y más chicos;

y llegados, son iguales

los que viven por sus manos

y los ricos.

In fact, when someone passes, I often say the first line, “Nuestras vidas son los ríos,” to those near the person, because it helps me understand life, although Celia hates it when I say it in those circumstances. (You can read a bad essay on it (in Spanish) that I wrote for my PhD, here)

Although I had read Hermann Hesse’s Siddhartha years ago, I recently re-read it. It is beautiful, especially the part about the river and the protagonist’s relationship with the river.

Why am I rambling? Because I recently went to Cincinnati and had the beautiful experience of meeting the handsome and mighty Ohio River. But don’t believe me, it was the Seneca (Iroquoian) people who called it the ohiːyo’, the good river, the great river. It did not disappoint. I was enthralled, as I was with the Seine, the Rhone, and so many others.

So if you have the opportunity, spend some time with a river, listen to it, and understand that it is the same river from the first drop in the mountain to the ocean, yet it is always a different river. You are welcome.

“But out of all secrets of the river, he today only saw one, this one touched his soul. He saw: this water ran and ran, incessantly it ran, and was nevertheless always there, was always at all times the same and yet new in every moment! Great be he who would grasp this, understand this! He understood and grasped it not, only felt some idea of it stirring, a distant memory, divine voices.”

― Hermann Hesse, Siddhartha

The Taft Museum of Art, a hidden treasure.

As I mentioned last week, while I was in Cincinnati, I had planned to visit the Taft Museum of Art upon arrival, but since I landed late on Thursday, I had to skip the conference on Saturday to go to the museum (Shhh, don’t tell anyone). I particularly wanted to see Goya’s Queen Maria Luisa, but I was pleasantly surprised to see many other jewels: a Turner, a Fortuny, and many other pieces. Unfortunately, two portraits by Madrazo were out on loan.  On the other hand, they were hosting a phenomenal exhibit of Rembrandt’s prints. I was deeply moved by The Return of the Prodigal Son and by Abraham and Jacob. A nice exhibit included all the tools and elements used to make prints, which helped me to understand the process of printmaking.

The Goya did not disappoint. The queen is radiant in her jewels and outfit. There is something about her gaze, is it mischief? Is it arrogance? One wonders… Unfortunately, the piece is hanging at the end of a corridor, not the best placement for arguably the best piece in the collection; maybe that is where Taft put her, but that is still no excuse. Lesser paintings are better positioned within the museum.

The museum is housed in Taft’s beautiful ancestral mansion, which has lovely grounds, a courtyard, a nice little gift shop, and a coffee shop, where I enjoyed a perfect cup of coffee.

If you are in Cincinnati and need a brief escape, a respite from the city, this is your place. You are welcome.

Oh, and if you want to see the process of printmaking, here is a cinematic version from the great film, Goya’s Ghosts. Enjoy.

Cincinatti, an underrated city and a great university

One of the blessings of being an academic (even a bad one like me) is being able to present at academic conferences. I have spent the last few months working on an academic project, and it was time to present it to the world, so I chose the oldest graduate student-run conference on Romance languages and literatures: the Cincinnati Conference on Romance and Arabic Language and Literature at the University of Cincinnati.

My first surprise? Hills! (South Florida is lacking in that department.) I walked and walked. After dropping off my bag at the hotel, across the street from campus, I arrived at the colorful and pretty Over the Rhine neighborhood. The first big group of immigrants to arrive in Cincinnati was German—the Ohio River reminded them of the Rhine…, so there is a distinct German feel to the city, including many breweries. I stopped at Rheingeist, which was amazing, after seeing Findlay Market, the squares, the Music Hall, and the Ohio River with its great bridges, especially the Roebling Bridge. I ended my evening at a dive bar, my favorite place to get a sense of a place. Everyone I met was super friendly—a characteristic of medium and smaller cities, especially in the Midwest

The conference was fantastic. My panel had the best turnout I have ever had! The campus is beautiful, and the building housing the Romance and Arabic Language Department is a great, unique place. I was really impressed with the level of the university, the department, and the presenters!

The keynote speakers were the cherry on top! Ana Davila Cardinal is a hilarious Hispanic novelist, and Kaouther Adimi is a brilliant Algerian author. The reception after, in a hip bar, was fun and social.

On Saturday, I played hooky and walked to the Taft Museum of Art, but that’s for a separate blog post.