Halfway, turn around day, 107° in Texas

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Yes, I was sipping a short latte at Starbucks in UT Austin, sad to head back, not looking forward to another blistering day under the Texas heat, wishing I could ride on and on (even in the heat).

Everything in Texas really is bigger. UT Austin has fifty odd thousand students, 100 grad students in the Spanish dept., two, not the usual one Cervantistas, a skyscraper instead of the usual bell tower or chapel. At any rate, I had a very nice chat with Prof Laura Rodriguez and they obviously run a Texas style department: big and good.

To call UT a campus is a misnomer, city is more appropriate. Their own electric plant, water plant, etc., etc. Before leaving I stopped in their Catholic chapel and took some time in prayer and reflection before starting my ride home.

From there it was back roads all the way to the top Northeast corner of Texas, Texarkana.

The riding was beautiful, but the heat extreme.

In a little roadside place, Lee’s Landing, I had the best catfish I’ve ever had, they also make these great jalapeño poppers, and chocolate balls! Lee is the owner, he’s a great guy and a crazy biker!

The heat continued into the evening, although the sky was clear, there were a couple of showers but I just powered through them cooling me and poor Rocinante down, and making the ground smell cool and sweet. Despite the heat, the ride was beautiful. Traveling around this huge, great country you notice all the subtle changes in vegetation. Moving North on Rocinante I started to see more and more tress and the occasional patches of grass become bigger and bigger.

My objective was Texarkana on the border with Arkansas so I stopped for a quick dinner – making friends with a guy that collects old Spanish artifacts from the conquistadors! and I pressed on to Arkansas. The heat continued in the 80s and 90s well into the night.

Leg 9, day 13 Houston to Austin. The Ecuator of the trip

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I had heard about Australian hospitality and it is all true. Last night I had not taken my helmet off, I had not even gotten off Rocinante and I had a beer in my hand. After a great night’s sleep, I was not out of bed and David had already put a cup of hot coffee in my hand. He cooked eggs just taken from their own chicken coop – nothing tastes like fresh layed eggs! And black sausage, and my first ever Vegemite sandwich! (it’s very salty). David is also a biker with a retro Ducati, a classic BMW and a dirt scrambler! Baby Finn is a super sweet one and a half year old, and the dogs Pulgas and Wasabi are also right up there on the super nice list! I am blessed to have Isabel as my Godmother, and as a result Ilya as my friend – almost family. Thanks guys my stay w you is a highlight of my trip.

After a load of laundry, dryer, checking email and getting sorted out I rode down to Mancuso’s Harley, an old classic dealership. After 2.500 miles in the heat Rocinante deserved an oil change. The dealership is great, old school, cozy, none of the flash of the new places. Mancuso was a drag racer and one of his (double engined) bikes is on show. Khon did a great job with Roci. Thanks!

With the whole day still ahead, I could afford to take back roads in the Hill Country all the way to Austin.

Note to self: Never ever cross Texas in the middle of summer on your motorbike.

The ride was beautiful, but the heat was blistering. I had the best BBQ brisket, and pecan pie in a tinny roadside joint. The new oil in Rocinante reached 250° so I had to stop every half hour: for lunch, for water, even for a siesta in the shade of a tree. I must have drunk over a gallon of water in the over 40°C (over 100°F). I finally made it to Austin, and to the hotel pool.

Tomorrow I visit UT Austin and I start heading home, sad.

Constantine Cavafy – Ithaka

ITHAKA

As you set out for Ithaka
hope your road is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
angry Poseidon – don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that one on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
wild Poseidon – you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

Hope your road is a long one.
May there be many summer mornings when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you enter harbours you’re seeing for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfumes of every kind –
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to learn and go on learning from their scholars.

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you’re destined for.
But don’t hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you’re old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you’ve gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

Ithaka gave you the marvellous journey.
Without her you wouldn’t have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.
And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you’ll have understood by then what these Ithakas mean

Constantine P. Cavafy


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Why travel? Why a road trip? Why on Rocinante?

My parents are great travelers. I was blessed. And now I need to travel.

Traveling is not about seeing things, although there is that. Just in this trip I have seen: Augusta, home of the Master’s golf tournament, the Boy Scouts headquartets complete with a replica of the Statue of Liberty, the museum of agricultural machinery, the Mercedes Benz plant in Tuscaloosa (huge), the Arrow shirt factory, cities, towns, villages, etc. etc.

There is meeting people and listening to their stories. Everybody wants to tell you their stories. And each one is fascinating and unique.

There is the silence, the solitude, the mile upon mile of reflection. The distance gives you perspective, you can see the scale of your problems. Is it running away? Yes, so you can return refreshed and wiser to tackling your life. I was sitting at a traffic light in Alabama, looking into the sunset and I finally felt far, far away from my world, from everything, and for an instant, I was happy.

Rocinante as I’ve said before is not very fast. You sit upright. She’s not very loud, she has the original stock pipes. When you are sitting on a bike you have 360° sensory awareness: you see everything, you feel everything, you hear, ok, most stuff, you smell everything. You have no radio, no music, no temperature control, no gadgets, no GPS. You are sitting on the engine, the wheels, the gas tank, you only have the controls you need. Rocinante’s range is a couple hundred miles, so you need to stop at least every couple of hours.

Every mile that you ride you are a mile wiser, a mile more patient, a mile more understanding, a mile richer.

Leg 8, day 12. The Big Easy to Houston

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Wow, there is a lot to be said about an urban school! I loved Tulane. After sadly saying goodbye to my adorable hotel, Rocinante and I headed across the beautiful New Orleans to Tulane. I had been here a couple of times for work in the 90’s and I love the energy, the vibe, the Southern sophistication of the city.

In Tulane I had a coffee with Sophie who is getting her PhD in cultural studies in Central America – really cool stuff. She gave me the low down, the scoop, the inside story. Gracias Sophie. Then I went for a walkabout around campus and to the department. In his office, getting sorted out after his summer was none other than Prof. Henry Sullivan, the eminent Cervantista who would likely direct my thesis if I ever got accepted at TU. Needless to say I was honored to chat with him for five minutes.

After that it was time to check out the campus. I loved the small school feeling, the urban setting, just great vibes.

From there it was seven hours riding in blistering heat to Houston. Had an authentic lunch at a roadside diner in Baton Rouge, and frequent stops to soak my T-shirt and put it back on to cool down for a few miles.

Finally I arrived at Ilya and David’s home in Houston. Ilya is my Godmother’s daughter and she is just (or more) like a cousin. They have a great kid Flinn and two great dogs Pulgas and Wasabi. We had a few beers and a great chat.

Leg 7, day 11 Tuscaloosa to New Orleans, Southernmost point on the trip.

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Confession: I did not go in with high expectations to University of Alabama, you know, Forest Gump and all that. But it really is fantastic! The school spirit, driven by the football team is unique. This brings about a special pride that permeates the whole school, truly impressive. I had a great conversation with Prof. Ana Corbalán, and it is clear they run a great PhD program. Rent is a joke compared to Boston. I’m very excited to apply!

Breakfast was the best coffee I’ve had in days at Chloe’s cup, another pleasant surprise.

After visiting T-mobile again to sort out some phone issues – Collin you are the man! It was back on Rocinante to New Orleans.

It was warm and pleasant, so the ride was very enjoyable. Unfortunately Rocinante started leaking some oil from the air intake, so I stopped at the closest dealer, by now in Mississippi, where I bought a new air filter and changed it. Big shout out to Bubba at Chunky River Harley-Davidson for letting me work on his beautiful parking lot! A few miles later I detected a bad burning smell. I was worried something was going wrong with the new air filter and was about to stop, when I turned a corner and saw a burning truck. Phew!

Although I was pressed for time I took some back roads in rural Mississippi, and boy was it worth it. The sweet smell of fresh cut hay, beautiful farms and homes, rolling hills, tiny villages. What a sunset! Unfortunately that meant a night approach into New Orleans.

Advice for traveling on the cheap: Stop at the state welcome centers when you enter a new state. They have coupons on great hotels.

So I am staying at the cutest hotel in NOLA. The Olde Towne Inn, in the French Quarter for forty Buckaroos! With locked parking for Rocinante.

I walked a little looking for a restaurant for dinner and to stretch my legs. I found a great bar/restaurant where I had a Veggie Po’Boy and met a Tulane grad student in social work, Lea and her roommate Laura who is applying for her PhD in Latin American studies also at Tulane. They participate in the online Couch Surfing program where you connect online with people and you get to crash on their couch. It is free and you get to meet interesting people, something to explore definitely. What a great conversation.

Tomorrow I am meeting  Sophie, a Tulane grad student in Spanish Lit who has volunteered to chat with me, God bless her. I can’t wait!

Leg 6, day 10 Atlanta to Tuscaloosa, Alabama (with new phone!)

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Quill Healy and I finally connected! I rode to his beautiful home this morning and we had a wonderful breakfast catching up and going down memory lane. He has a great family and has survived the real estate rollercoaster ride. Not patronizing but I’m really proud of him.

Emory was great! The campus is a perfect mix of quaint and modern, intimate and urban, impressive and cozy, I loved it! I had a very illuminating chat with Amy, the department coordinator, she is a professional, knowledgeable, caring and very nice person.

I checked my email at the Apple store in the Emory bookstore and ended up having a very interesting conversation with the manager.

Then it was Rocinante time all the way to Tuscaloosa. It was a sunny, not too hot a day, so it was a very enjoyable ride. Around lunch time I got off the highway expecting the usual roadside fare (bad Southern corporate cuisine) and instead found myself in a huge premium mall with top, top, brands. So lunch turned out better than expected at Sweet Bones Alabama. During lunch I found out I was on the Summit mall, serving suburban Birmingham AL.

When I arrived  in Tuscaloosa I found parts of the city still devastated by  April’s hurricane. In fact the T mobile store I went to pick up my phone is still in a trailer. Collin was phenomenal and had me set up in no time with my new phone, thanks.

I still had plenty of time to check out the town. The university is HUGE, by far the biggest I’ve ever seen. I’m excited for my meeting tomorrow!

Georgetown SC to Atlanta. Phone almost kaputt.

As the doctor says in The Prince’s Bride my phone is mostly dead, but not all dead. It randomly turns itself on and off. I’m looking forward to getting a new one tomorrow.

At any rate. After a marvelous week end at the Moon’s, I left this morning after mass. I was racing against severe storms moving in. I travelled for miles along deserted, except for folks going to church, back roads, until it started raining. I found some shelter off the road, under tree canopy cover. It was a sweet, soft rain. I made myself comfortable, lying back on Rocinante and took a short nap!

The second time it trained was on the highway, but it was hot and the sun was shining, so I pressed on.

The third and last rain came when I was in the Georgia Welcome Center. Big shout out to the girls there who were professional, sweet, funny and helped me get set up with the Georgia leg of my trip.

I’m excited to be in a big city. I love the energy and different people that make a city.

Unfortunately there was some confusion on the date of my arrival with my dear friend Quill, so I did not get to stay with him. I did, however, have time to ride around the Emory campus. It is beautiful and I can’t wait for my visit tomorrow!

Biblical downpours, soaked phone, and fried flounder. Leg 4 part II UNC to the Moon’s Georgetown South Carolina

Woke up to an overcast sky as I said goodbye to Oak Island at the great Russell’s diner. Loved Larry’s jokes, Heather’s service and my conversation with Cyndi. Then as soon as I left the restaurant, the rain started. That was the trend for the day: rain – stop at a gas station, empty porch, VW dealership (big shout out to Eastern VW in Myrtle Beach for hosting me!) – dry out – get on the bike – rain – start all over again. The last time I did this exercise I did not make it to a shelter in time as the sky opened up and poured on me. Apparently there was enough water in my pocket to mess with my phone… so… NO PHONE. I have set up to get it replaced on Tuesday in Tuscaloosa AL when I go by there. I finally made it to Bailey Moon’s beautiful 1700s house. They are the sweetest, most wonderful family. They are hosting me for the weekend. We had a great dinner of fried flounder at Big Tuna, a great breakfast, lunch, etc. etc. But even better is the conversation, the bonding, the company. Thanks Moon family!! Georgetown SC is the third oldest city in South Carolina (after Charleston and Beaufort) and it is a typical Southern, charming town, with small cafes, tree lined avenues, old houses, and great people.

Since I will not be able to post tomorrow or monday. Tomorrow I will leave Georgetown after mass and go to Atlanta Georgia, staying at my old friend’s Quill Healey’s. Monday I will visit Emory U and tuesday I should be in Tuscaloosa Alabama, where I will visit University of Alabama and hopefully pick up my new phone.

 

Until next time


, cheerio!