Madrid

Anton Raphael Mengs at the Prado Museum (hurry, until March 1, 2026)

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Yes, I might have a mildly obsessive personality. One such obsession is the 18th Century, I rather flourish with everything to do Enlightenment, Neoclassical, late Baroque, early Romantic, you get my drift.

When I found out there was a Mengs exhibit at the Prado, I did not go once; I went twice (and I might go again) —Advantage of being an “Amigo del Prado,” I get in for free 😊

Mengs is the consummate 18th-century, Enlightenment painter. Although he worked for a lot of European nobility, most of his work was for King Carlos III in Madrid; in fact, most of Mengs’ work I have seen was at the Palacio Real in Madrid.

My main scholarly project at the moment (sorry, I cannot disclose too many details) involves a Francisco de Isla book that was in the library of the Spanish-Italian Cardinal Zelada. What was my surprise when reading the description of a portrait at the exhibit, that it was Cardenal Zelada, which normally lives at the Art Institute of Chicago, what a coincidence! (Check it out here).

The exhibit is phenomenally curated; it has hundreds of paintings gathered from around the world, divided into 10 huge areas grouping different stages and themes. It is worth the visit.

So if you are in Madrid before March 1st, 2026, go to the Prado and check out the Mengs exhibition. You are welcome.

The greatest tiny gym in the world.

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If you are a reader of this blog, you know that I like to think that I am a connoisseur of gyms, as you could read here and here. You also know that I strive to stay fit, mentally, spiritually, and physically. This means that if I am going to have an extended stay somewhere where I am going to have some routine, I need a gym.

This is what happens when I visit my family in Madrid. For the last few years, when I come, I get myself a monthly membership at Synergym.

This is a great gym; it has a great vibe, a great staff, chill but helpful when needed, the definition of professional, led by their great manager, Paula. It has all the equipment and classes you need, all the requirements of a modern-day gym. Everything is managed by the Synergym App, including entry to the gym. It also helps that it is very reasonably priced.

There is one main issue with this gym: it is tiny. Yes, it has all the equipment: 5 treadmills, 1 staircase, a bicycle, and a handful of ellipticals for cardio, all the main weight machines, a squat rack, a cable machine, and of course, dumbbells, oh, and all the plates you could ever dream of —there are plates everywhere! The problem is that they are all in a tiny room. There is another room for fitness classes, changing rooms, showers, etc.

The trick is that if you go when there are many people, you do not have the luxury of waltzing from one station or machine to the other —unless you are very patient— so you must know your exercises well so you can get a good workout at any given station.

So if you are looking for a chill, neighborhood gym in Chamberí, you have a solid understanding of your workouts, and you are not too fussy, Synergym is for you! You are welcome.

The Sleeper. El Caravaggio Perdido

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Although I have a lot of blog posts on film, I have remarkably few on documentaries (other than on Minimalism, and on the Camino).

Ok, this is the story: My friend Jaime’s daughter is good friends with a family that for years had Caravaggio hanging in their dining room, which they thought was a bad imitation of a Murillo, and would have been happy to get 1,500 euros at auction.

This is a documentary on the story of that painting, it is very well done. I recently saw it on the plane ride back to the US and I really enjoyed it!

While narrating the story of this painting, the documentary delves into the world of art dealers, art historians, auction houses, and art restorers. It offers a fascinating glimpse into this normally secretive world. And it all revolves around Caravaggio, who is not only an amazing painter, but who had a fascinating life; there are not that many world-class painters who killed someone!

Apparently, it is available on Prime Video, so if you have the possibility of seeing it, and you like art, definitely see it. You are welcome.

La feria del libro in Madrid

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Here is a bit of a paradox: I love literature (so much that I made it my livelihood), I love books, but I really do not like Madrid’s huge annual book fair: La Feria del Libro.

Every year, the first two weeks in June, hundreds of bookstores and publishers set up camp in Madrid’s beautiful Retiro Park. Every day, there are book signings, conferences, debates, colloquia, and, of course, bars, ice cream stands, and all sorts of other associated entertainment.

I try to avoid it, but I still go and walk around together with thousands of other folks who are looking for celebrity author sightings and signings and are willing to stand in line for hours to get a book signed.

This year was a bit different for me. Celia found out that Carmen Lomana, an old employee of my dad’s in London, who is now a bit of a celebrity, was signing her memoirs. We went to her booth, chatted with her for a few minutes about life in London in the early 80s, and bought her book for Mom, which Lomana kindly signed.

We also walked around, bought a couple of books, some overpriced ice cream, and enjoyed the throngs of people.

So if you are in Madrid the first couple of weeks in June and you love books (or don’t), go to the Retiro Park and enjoy the Feria del Libro with hundreds of other book lovers.

PS: Statistics show that for the last few years, while book sales are up, book reading is down. Someone explain that to me -or don’t bother.

An evening at a Van Morrison concert

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That's Van (and my sister)

Van Morrison was featured in this blog back in June 2014 because he is my favorite contemporary musician. Well, it is time to revisit the Lion of Belfast, as I recently had the opportunity to see him at a concert in Madrid. I had not been to a Van Morrison concert since the mid-2000s!

My dear friend Paco notified me, and I immediately bought a ticket, without knowing if I would be in Spain by June 4th. Fortunately, I was. A couple of days before, Paco’s wife pulled out of the concert, so I invited my sister, Rocky. We had a blast.

The concert was held at the university’s botanical garden, which features a large amphitheater-like stage area in the center. Surrounding it, they have placed all sorts of food trucks and bars, making for an awesome, cool (literally) experience on summer nights. They host a variety of concerts (see photos).

Van played a few of his big hits, such as “Days Like This,” “In the Afternoon,” or “Raincheck.” He also played a couple of his new songs, including “Cutting Corners.” He played a few covers, including Ray Charles’ “What Would I Do Without You” and Hank Williams’ “Cold, Cold Heart”.

Van had an amazing 9-piece band with him, which shone at the end of the concert, when they performed “Gloria”. Van then left them to each do their solos, which was mind-blowing and amazing!

Van sang for a very respectable hour and a half in the beautiful Madrid evening and light. This was my fourth time seeing Van the Man, and it was certainly my favorite concert. With his melodies, he takes you on wonderful spiritual journeys, letting you daydream in the beauty of the songs, he is really unique and unparalleled.

This was the playlist (thanks to setlist.fm)

Only a Dream

Cutting Corners

Back on Top

What Would I Do Without You (Ray Charles cover)

Days Like This

Real Real Gone

In the Afternoon / Raincheck / Sittin’ Pretty

Cleaning Windows

Green Rocky Road (traditional cover)

No Other Baby (Dickie Bishop and His Sidekicks cover)

Cold, Cold Heart (Hank Williams With His Drifting Cowboys cover)

Ain’t Gonna Moan No More

Broken Record

Wild Night

Help Me (Sonny Boy Williamson cover)

Gloria

A Streetcar Named Desire at the Teatro Español

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I read Streetcar in high school, and there are a lot of tangential references to it in Almodovar’s Todo sobre mi madre, one of my favorite Almodovar films, which incorporates Streetcar as a narrative thread. Then there is, of course, the film: Marlon Brando and Vivien Leigh at their best, with an excellent supporting crew like Karl Malden.

When you walk around New Orleans, there are many Tennessee Williams references: he drank a coffee here, he smoked a cigarette here, he tied his shoelaces here, you get the idea. So, I remember being fascinated by this author, having such a presence in New Orleans when I travelled there for work years ago. That presence worked both ways, as you could argue that New Orleans is another main character in the play.

But I had never seen it until last week when I saw a billboard at the Teatro Español, no less. I got tickets for Celia and me —admittedly, I got them late, so they were not the best…

It was fantastic! Nathalie Poza as Blanche drives the play with all the subtleties of her character. Pablo Derqui is not Marlon Brando, but he puts up a solid effort. The set, the direction, the sound, it all works out perfectly. The stage manager even has rain, “real” rain, which, while impressive, ends up being a bit of unnecessary gimmick. And, with this being the Teatro Español, the world’s oldest (mostly) continuously running theatre (since 1583), there is an added aura, added magic.

So if you are in Madrid before July 27, see A Streetcar Named Desire. You are welcome.

Sorolla and the Sea at the Norton in West Palm Beach

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Maybe because the Joaquín Sorolla house and museum is around the corner from my family home in Madrid, Sorolla was the first painter I connected to. Maybe it was his Mediterranean scenes that took me to my own Summers in the Med. Whatever it might have been, Sorolla has a special place in my heart.

When I am in Madrid, I often sneak into the garden of the Sorolla house museum to read, and occasionally I will go inside to visit the paintings like old friends (you can read about that here).

So when I learned the Norton Museum was hosting an exhibition to complement their existing (huge) Sorolla painting, I had to see it.

It did not disappoint. Most of the paintings are on loan from the Hispanic Society in New York City which commissioned many paintings from Sorolla. The exhibit includes some drafts of paintings, a bronze sculpture from his dear friend and paisano Benlliure -the marble one is in the garden in Sorolla’s house, even one of Sorolla’s palettes!

Sorolla is known as the painter of light, leaving behind the Impressionists, and creating a space of his own, beyond labels.

If you are in the Palm Beach area you should see it, you are welcome.

Ávila, a great excursion from Madrid

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If you are Catholic, you probably know Ávila from Saint Teresa. Otherwise, you might know this city because of its history, Medieval wall, or its sweets. Avila is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it is less than two hours North of Madrid, and a great and recommended visit.

It had been a long time since I visited this city, but I recently had a getaway with Celia. We took the train from Madrid, which was an adventure, having to change trains in El Escorial. We hit the city running, visiting El Real Monasterio de Santo Tomás straight from the train station. Sto. Tomas has one of the purest Gothic churches in Spain with an altarpiece by Berruguete, possibly the most famous Spanish artisan in this field, it also houses the tomb of the Infante Juan, Ferdinand and Isabella’s teenage son, three beautiful cloisters, etc.

We had the traditional steak for lunch and explored Saint Teresa’s home, now turned into a chapel -although they have kept her original room! We toured the Medieval wall, one of the finest in Europe, the Gothic cathedral, St. Teresa’s convent, all the beautiful little streets, sweet shops, and many palazzos, and squares. Since the visit was during Christmas, we got to see a few amazing Nativity scenes as well.

So, although Toledo and Segovia are better known day trips from Madrid, Ávila is in a remarkably close third position.

A night at the theatre: Luces de Bohemia

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One of my favorite plays, although I came to it rather late in life, is Ramón del Valle-Inclán’s Luces de Bohemia. (I wrote a short review of it here, although I found an error in my review: the concept of Esperpento defines chaotic Spain, not the world, as I wrote in my review).

At any rate when I saw it was showing at the oldest working theatre in the world, the Teatro Español in Madrid (you can read about it here), I immediately bought tickets for Celia and I.

The play was wonderful, the lead, Max Estrella was exquisitely performed by Ginés García Millán. The stage was well set, minimalist obviously, but with good taste and enough elements to add texture and depth. It even had a live band, something rare in Spanish theatre in general. The play, although tragic, perfectly describes today’s Spain despite it being written a hundred years ago.

If you have never been to the Teatro Español, it is in a little square, right smack in the middle of downtown Madrid. A Saturday night in Christmas time, with all the tourists, domestic and international, it was literally unwalkable, everybody with their cameras taking photos of the Christmas lights… If you are thinking of coming to Madrid this Christmas, don’t, unless you get tickets to see Luces de Bohemia.

A weekend celebration of friendship and love

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In the early 90s I was working at a boutique investment bank in Madrid, when a new intern straight out of college came in from Atlanta. I was only a few years out of college and had just returned to Madrid a few months before. Quill and I hit it off grandly! We went out, partied, I taught him to ski (remember, he was from Atlanta) and to ride a motorcycle. We had a great time, and we became close friends.

Daniel was the Director of the Writing Studio at Walnut Hill; I admired his capacity for quick wit and deep thought. I once had him give us a master class on Neruda’s 20 Poemas de amor, I was flabbergasted by how he dissected Neruda’s work. We left Walnut Hill at about the same time. He teaches English at Emory in Atlanta.

Bob was my student at Walnut Hill. After graduation he went to the New England Conservatory where I would occasionally go to his recitals and concerts. He eventually landed a position with the Atlanta Symphony, and we sort of lost touch for a few years until Film Club reunited us.

Bill was also my student at Walnut Hill, he plays the viola. He checked in with me when he went to audition for the Naples Symphony. We had dinner and a cigar, and caught up. When he read my blog post about JoJo Rabbit, he was inspired to start Film Club with a few other misfits.

Bob got married this weekend, so I got on a plane to Atlanta and went to see all these dear, dear friends.

Quill took me to lunch to an amazing Venezuelan restaurant where I had the best arepa I have had in a long, long time. I last saw him when I rolled into Atlanta on my motorcycle looking at PhD programs in 2011. We caught up, chatted, and remembered old times.

Daniel met me for coffee at a great little coffee shop aptly called The Reading Room. We sat al fresco and caught up on our lives since leaving old Boston.

Bob was getting married, so he did not have a lot of time for chitchat, but we did have a few conversations. Also, I talk to him every month during our Film Club meetings!

Bill invites me to his concerts when his orchestra plays in Miami, plus he spent his Summer in Madrid, but I still loved seeing him and hanging out with him. And I also get to see him in Film Club!

The wedding was beautiful. Although I have been to a few weddings, you could really feel the love in this one. Yes, everything was perfect down to the last detail: The ceremony was intimate and included one of Bob’s best friend on the piano (so you know it was good), Alina’s dress was perfect for her, the cocktails were delicious, as was dinner, the dancing was on point, etc., etc. but all that means little compared to the joy of love being celebrated. I really enjoyed it!

My heart is still overflowing with the love and friendship I experienced this weekend.