Stopping By Woods on a Snowy Evening

I have been thinking of this poem a lot on my ride. Maybe it was thinking of the snow in the Texas heat, or thinking of Rocinante, at any rate, enjoy:

Robert Frost

Stopping By Woods on a Snowy Evening

Whose woods these are I think I know.
His house is in the village though;
He will not see me stopping here
To watch his woods fill up with snow.

My little horse must think it queer
To stop without a farmhouse near
Between the woods and frozen lake
The darkest evening of the year.

He gives his harness bells a shake
To ask if there is some mistake.
The only other sound’s the sweep
Of easy wind and downy flake.

The woods are lovely, dark and deep.
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.

Leg 10 (part II), Day 15. Texarkana to Nashville Tennessee

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The heat was much milder today. I crossed Arkansas without blinking. Actually I did stop to take a photo of the exit for the village where Bill Clinton was born and for lunch in Little Rock. It is very nice, there are streetcars, and it is the place where racial integration in schools started in 1957 . The office of tourism is in an old mansion where I had a good laugh with the girls and I had lunch on the River Walk. I had catfish again in this great place, the Flying Fish! I had a coffee and Tiramisu with a fellow Harley rider talking about Spanish soccer (in Little Rock, Arkansas!!!) and I continued into Memphis.

Crossing the Mississippi, even for the second time, is an awesome experience.

The cradle of American music and the birthplace of Rock and Roll, Memphis is a very spiritual experience (if you are into the blues and rock and roll that is).

It was five pm so I decided to press on to Nashville for a couple of reasons: to have the day off from riding on Sunday, to increase the chances of going to a decent mass. What I did not take into account was that it was Vanderbuilt University moving in week-end, so hotels were booked. I managed a great deal with Larry at the Holiday Inn – big shout out for everybody that has helped me out so much on this trip! The hotel is the nicest I have stayed in so far, and I am excited.

Report on the flora and fauna

Like Lewis and Clark or Darwin on the Beagle, I too, being a natural science and biology aficionado have a research component to this trip. I have made careful observations on the flora and fauna along the way. Although my trip is far from over, here is a detailed report on my findings:

Flora:

A lot, except in central Texas. I love the huge magnolias, but my favorite are the humongous rhododendrons.

Fauna:

Armadilloes: Six, dead on the side of the road.

Birds: Many of the regular variety, plus of the falcon and vulture kind. A lot of egrets/herons in Louisiana of all sizes and colors, proving that you can never be too thin nor too cool.

Buffalos: none

Cats: a few strays around gas stations and hotels.

Cows: thousands

Deer: A bunch, the first one on the lawn of a house in Georgetown in Washington D.C.

Donkeys: unexpectedly, a lot.

Goats: Also surprisingly a lot, even of the rare Boer breed.
Fish: mostly dead and fried, on my plate.
Horses: hundreds
Lions: none, although I did see a sign for a drive through safari park in Texas. These, however, are not recommended when you are on a motorbike.

Sheep: Remarkably, none

Squirrels: Of course, although less than in New England
Skunks: half a dozen, (see armadilloes)

Zebra: No, wait, no (see Lions)

Halfway, turn around day, 107° in Texas

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Yes, I was sipping a short latte at Starbucks in UT Austin, sad to head back, not looking forward to another blistering day under the Texas heat, wishing I could ride on and on (even in the heat).

Everything in Texas really is bigger. UT Austin has fifty odd thousand students, 100 grad students in the Spanish dept., two, not the usual one Cervantistas, a skyscraper instead of the usual bell tower or chapel. At any rate, I had a very nice chat with Prof Laura Rodriguez and they obviously run a Texas style department: big and good.

To call UT a campus is a misnomer, city is more appropriate. Their own electric plant, water plant, etc., etc. Before leaving I stopped in their Catholic chapel and took some time in prayer and reflection before starting my ride home.

From there it was back roads all the way to the top Northeast corner of Texas, Texarkana.

The riding was beautiful, but the heat extreme.

In a little roadside place, Lee’s Landing, I had the best catfish I’ve ever had, they also make these great jalapeño poppers, and chocolate balls! Lee is the owner, he’s a great guy and a crazy biker!

The heat continued into the evening, although the sky was clear, there were a couple of showers but I just powered through them cooling me and poor Rocinante down, and making the ground smell cool and sweet. Despite the heat, the ride was beautiful. Traveling around this huge, great country you notice all the subtle changes in vegetation. Moving North on Rocinante I started to see more and more tress and the occasional patches of grass become bigger and bigger.

My objective was Texarkana on the border with Arkansas so I stopped for a quick dinner – making friends with a guy that collects old Spanish artifacts from the conquistadors! and I pressed on to Arkansas. The heat continued in the 80s and 90s well into the night.

Leg 9, day 13 Houston to Austin. The Ecuator of the trip

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I had heard about Australian hospitality and it is all true. Last night I had not taken my helmet off, I had not even gotten off Rocinante and I had a beer in my hand. After a great night’s sleep, I was not out of bed and David had already put a cup of hot coffee in my hand. He cooked eggs just taken from their own chicken coop – nothing tastes like fresh layed eggs! And black sausage, and my first ever Vegemite sandwich! (it’s very salty). David is also a biker with a retro Ducati, a classic BMW and a dirt scrambler! Baby Finn is a super sweet one and a half year old, and the dogs Pulgas and Wasabi are also right up there on the super nice list! I am blessed to have Isabel as my Godmother, and as a result Ilya as my friend – almost family. Thanks guys my stay w you is a highlight of my trip.

After a load of laundry, dryer, checking email and getting sorted out I rode down to Mancuso’s Harley, an old classic dealership. After 2.500 miles in the heat Rocinante deserved an oil change. The dealership is great, old school, cozy, none of the flash of the new places. Mancuso was a drag racer and one of his (double engined) bikes is on show. Khon did a great job with Roci. Thanks!

With the whole day still ahead, I could afford to take back roads in the Hill Country all the way to Austin.

Note to self: Never ever cross Texas in the middle of summer on your motorbike.

The ride was beautiful, but the heat was blistering. I had the best BBQ brisket, and pecan pie in a tinny roadside joint. The new oil in Rocinante reached 250° so I had to stop every half hour: for lunch, for water, even for a siesta in the shade of a tree. I must have drunk over a gallon of water in the over 40°C (over 100°F). I finally made it to Austin, and to the hotel pool.

Tomorrow I visit UT Austin and I start heading home, sad.

Constantine Cavafy – Ithaka

ITHAKA

As you set out for Ithaka
hope your road is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
angry Poseidon – don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that one on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
wild Poseidon – you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

Hope your road is a long one.
May there be many summer mornings when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you enter harbours you’re seeing for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfumes of every kind –
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to learn and go on learning from their scholars.

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you’re destined for.
But don’t hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you’re old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you’ve gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

Ithaka gave you the marvellous journey.
Without her you wouldn’t have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.
And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you’ll have understood by then what these Ithakas mean

Constantine P. Cavafy


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Why travel? Why a road trip? Why on Rocinante?

My parents are great travelers. I was blessed. And now I need to travel.

Traveling is not about seeing things, although there is that. Just in this trip I have seen: Augusta, home of the Master’s golf tournament, the Boy Scouts headquartets complete with a replica of the Statue of Liberty, the museum of agricultural machinery, the Mercedes Benz plant in Tuscaloosa (huge), the Arrow shirt factory, cities, towns, villages, etc. etc.

There is meeting people and listening to their stories. Everybody wants to tell you their stories. And each one is fascinating and unique.

There is the silence, the solitude, the mile upon mile of reflection. The distance gives you perspective, you can see the scale of your problems. Is it running away? Yes, so you can return refreshed and wiser to tackling your life. I was sitting at a traffic light in Alabama, looking into the sunset and I finally felt far, far away from my world, from everything, and for an instant, I was happy.

Rocinante as I’ve said before is not very fast. You sit upright. She’s not very loud, she has the original stock pipes. When you are sitting on a bike you have 360° sensory awareness: you see everything, you feel everything, you hear, ok, most stuff, you smell everything. You have no radio, no music, no temperature control, no gadgets, no GPS. You are sitting on the engine, the wheels, the gas tank, you only have the controls you need. Rocinante’s range is a couple hundred miles, so you need to stop at least every couple of hours.

Every mile that you ride you are a mile wiser, a mile more patient, a mile more understanding, a mile richer.

Leg 8, day 12. The Big Easy to Houston

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Wow, there is a lot to be said about an urban school! I loved Tulane. After sadly saying goodbye to my adorable hotel, Rocinante and I headed across the beautiful New Orleans to Tulane. I had been here a couple of times for work in the 90’s and I love the energy, the vibe, the Southern sophistication of the city.

In Tulane I had a coffee with Sophie who is getting her PhD in cultural studies in Central America – really cool stuff. She gave me the low down, the scoop, the inside story. Gracias Sophie. Then I went for a walkabout around campus and to the department. In his office, getting sorted out after his summer was none other than Prof. Henry Sullivan, the eminent Cervantista who would likely direct my thesis if I ever got accepted at TU. Needless to say I was honored to chat with him for five minutes.

After that it was time to check out the campus. I loved the small school feeling, the urban setting, just great vibes.

From there it was seven hours riding in blistering heat to Houston. Had an authentic lunch at a roadside diner in Baton Rouge, and frequent stops to soak my T-shirt and put it back on to cool down for a few miles.

Finally I arrived at Ilya and David’s home in Houston. Ilya is my Godmother’s daughter and she is just (or more) like a cousin. They have a great kid Flinn and two great dogs Pulgas and Wasabi. We had a few beers and a great chat.

Leg 7, day 11 Tuscaloosa to New Orleans, Southernmost point on the trip.

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Confession: I did not go in with high expectations to University of Alabama, you know, Forest Gump and all that. But it really is fantastic! The school spirit, driven by the football team is unique. This brings about a special pride that permeates the whole school, truly impressive. I had a great conversation with Prof. Ana Corbalán, and it is clear they run a great PhD program. Rent is a joke compared to Boston. I’m very excited to apply!

Breakfast was the best coffee I’ve had in days at Chloe’s cup, another pleasant surprise.

After visiting T-mobile again to sort out some phone issues – Collin you are the man! It was back on Rocinante to New Orleans.

It was warm and pleasant, so the ride was very enjoyable. Unfortunately Rocinante started leaking some oil from the air intake, so I stopped at the closest dealer, by now in Mississippi, where I bought a new air filter and changed it. Big shout out to Bubba at Chunky River Harley-Davidson for letting me work on his beautiful parking lot! A few miles later I detected a bad burning smell. I was worried something was going wrong with the new air filter and was about to stop, when I turned a corner and saw a burning truck. Phew!

Although I was pressed for time I took some back roads in rural Mississippi, and boy was it worth it. The sweet smell of fresh cut hay, beautiful farms and homes, rolling hills, tiny villages. What a sunset! Unfortunately that meant a night approach into New Orleans.

Advice for traveling on the cheap: Stop at the state welcome centers when you enter a new state. They have coupons on great hotels.

So I am staying at the cutest hotel in NOLA. The Olde Towne Inn, in the French Quarter for forty Buckaroos! With locked parking for Rocinante.

I walked a little looking for a restaurant for dinner and to stretch my legs. I found a great bar/restaurant where I had a Veggie Po’Boy and met a Tulane grad student in social work, Lea and her roommate Laura who is applying for her PhD in Latin American studies also at Tulane. They participate in the online Couch Surfing program where you connect online with people and you get to crash on their couch. It is free and you get to meet interesting people, something to explore definitely. What a great conversation.

Tomorrow I am meeting  Sophie, a Tulane grad student in Spanish Lit who has volunteered to chat with me, God bless her. I can’t wait!