Romans

Yes, I might be mildly obsessed with the Camino de Santiago, the way of St. James, as you can see from all the posts on the Camino in this blog (go to the search feature and type Camino, I do not like to categorize the blog).

My sister, who knows me well, gave me the perfect Christmas present, a book: Historia mágica del Camino de Santiago by Fernando Sánchez Dragó.

Sánchez Dragó was a huge celebrity in Spain. For years he was a book reviewer on TV, so he was very famous. He was also a writer, winning, in 1992, the Planeta award, which is the top book award in Spain for La prueba del laberinto. “Sánchez Dragó died on 10 April 2023, at age 86, after suffering a heart attack at his residence in Castilfrío de la Sierra.” (Wikipedia)

But I had never read any of his work. My mind was blown.

The book is a psychedelic baroque explosion, dealing with all the “conspiracy theories” of the Camino. The Celtic origins of the Camino, druids, Romans, Egyptian gods, Freemasons, Solomon’s Temple, early church history, the Cluny monks, architecture, Crusaders, the walking stick used by early pilgrims, the meaning of the seashell, etc., etc.

The main argument of the book revolves around Priscillian, (in Latin: Priscillianus; Gallaecia, c. 340 – Augusta Treverorum, Gallia Belgica, c. 385, Wikipedia) Bishop of Avila who in 380 was the first heretic executed by the Church. Is he the one buried in Santiago de Compostela, and not St. James?

Of course, this is no way changes the Camino, you can think what you want about it, and, in fact all sorts of folks with all sorts of beliefs walk the Camino. This book is just a revelation as far as the history of the Camino, it brings together the early history of the region of Galicia and how the Camino came about. Like most things, the story is much more complex and nuanced than what meets the eye…

My family used to go on holidays to Galicia, the Northwest coast of Spain. Atlantic water temperature and Atlantic waves. When my little sister Rocky was born we decided to switch our holidays to Mallorca island on the Mediterranean, where we found a little “cala”, inlet on the south shore of the island. Warm, beautiful, tranquil, crystal clear water. We have been coming to the same place for the last forty odd years, Camp de Mar. First we stayed at the “Gran Hotel”, old world style and panache, real furniture, “sit down dinner”, even a springboard on the beautiful pool! Unfortunately, after falling into disrepair it was razed and turned into a gaudy monstrosity. So we rotated through a series of rental homes until in the early 00s we found the Dorint. A resort built on what used to be an old farm where we used to go on nice summer evening walks eating the carobs off the ground. Some of my fondest memories are of excursions around the island, walking the old streets of the capital, Palma de Mallorca, with it’s beautiful squares and Gothic cathedral. I loved coming to the island when I had my own business and customers to visit. For many years when I had the money I rented a rag top Jeep to drive around the island and to go to the village to pick up freshly made ensaimadas, the local pastries, enjoying the sun and wind in my face and hair (I had hair then).

For the last few years my parents have been bringing their grandkids on holidays here. The rest of us come and go as time and money allow! I have been able to come for the last three years and I love it.

There is something magical about these islands. The light, the sea, the warm, dry days and nights, the intoxicating sweet smell of night. Not surprisingly it is, and has been home to Phoenicians, Romans and Moors, Chopin and George Sand, Agatha Christie, Rubén Dario, Joan Miró, and more recently Michael Douglas, Claudia Schiffer, and of course Rafa Nadal.

Our life here is very quiet. Wonderful breakfasts with local pastries, quiet beach, pool, siestas, and nice meals. I enjoy the gym, swimming, running on the local forested hills, evening walks with the family after dinner and the bar at night. But most of all I am getting a ton of reading done for my Ph.D. exams next spring! On Sundays I go to the village to the 1248 church for mass (granted it was pretty much re-done in 1703, but still).