new orleans

A Streetcar Named Desire at the Teatro Español

/ antonioyrocinante / 1 Comment

I read Streetcar in high school, and there are a lot of tangential references to it in Almodovar’s Todo sobre mi madre, one of my favorite Almodovar films, which incorporates Streetcar as a narrative thread. Then there is, of course, the film: Marlon Brando and Vivien Leigh at their best, with an excellent supporting crew like Karl Malden.

When you walk around New Orleans, there are many Tennessee Williams references: he drank a coffee here, he smoked a cigarette here, he tied his shoelaces here, you get the idea. So, I remember being fascinated by this author, having such a presence in New Orleans when I travelled there for work years ago. That presence worked both ways, as you could argue that New Orleans is another main character in the play.

But I had never seen it until last week when I saw a billboard at the Teatro Español, no less. I got tickets for Celia and me —admittedly, I got them late, so they were not the best…

It was fantastic! Nathalie Poza as Blanche drives the play with all the subtleties of her character. Pablo Derqui is not Marlon Brando, but he puts up a solid effort. The set, the direction, the sound, it all works out perfectly. The stage manager even has rain, “real” rain, which, while impressive, ends up being a bit of unnecessary gimmick. And, with this being the Teatro Español, the world’s oldest (mostly) continuously running theatre (since 1583), there is an added aura, added magic.

So if you are in Madrid before July 27, see A Streetcar Named Desire. You are welcome.

The Streets of New Orleans, The New Orleans Gospel Stars, gospel music as a meditation.

/ antonioyrocinante / 2 Comments

It was love at first sight. The streets, the feel, the vibe, I stayed at a dingy little hotel in the French Quarter, the Andrew Jackson, my room stank of weed, every morning I had breakfast at the Clover Grill Diner before heading to work. In the mid-90s I went to New Orleans two years in a row for a conference. I do not remember much about the conferences, but New Orleans stayed in my heart. But I was not new to New Orleans, for years I had listened to its music, its magical, powerful, beautiful music which my dad loved and played constantly. As a result of this, I got hooked on the New Orleans sound, listening to Branford and Wynton Marsalis, Harry Connick Jr., Jon Batiste and so many more.

The other day I saw a poster for a Gospel Choir concert in Madrid, and Celia and I immediately invited my niece and my nephew to the concert.

It was a blast! The brass marched into the hall playing a beautiful version of “Just a Closer Walk with Thee” which I know and love from Van Morrison’s version, then the rest of the band walked in and ignited the crowd with their rhythm and energy. “What a Wonderful World” was nice, but nobody can come close to Louis Armstrong on that one. At the end we got the classic: “Oh Happy Day.” For the grand finale: “When the Saints Come Marching in.” The normally conservative Madrid crowd was all standing and dancing! What a show!

Richard Rohr writes in his daily reflection about this music:

“worship in the Black church can create a communal contemplative experience”

CAC faculty member Barbara Holmes

My niece and nephew enjoyed it. I loved traveling back to my dear New Orleans, as I had not been there since the start of this blog in 2011 (check it out here) when I applied for my PhD in Tulane.

Here is a clip of the amazing New Orleans Gospel Stars, enjoy:

Leg 8, day 12. The Big Easy to Houston

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Wow, there is a lot to be said about an urban school! I loved Tulane. After sadly saying goodbye to my adorable hotel, Rocinante and I headed across the beautiful New Orleans to Tulane. I had been here a couple of times for work in the 90’s and I love the energy, the vibe, the Southern sophistication of the city.

In Tulane I had a coffee with Sophie who is getting her PhD in cultural studies in Central America – really cool stuff. She gave me the low down, the scoop, the inside story. Gracias Sophie. Then I went for a walkabout around campus and to the department. In his office, getting sorted out after his summer was none other than Prof. Henry Sullivan, the eminent Cervantista who would likely direct my thesis if I ever got accepted at TU. Needless to say I was honored to chat with him for five minutes.

After that it was time to check out the campus. I loved the small school feeling, the urban setting, just great vibes.

From there it was seven hours riding in blistering heat to Houston. Had an authentic lunch at a roadside diner in Baton Rouge, and frequent stops to soak my T-shirt and put it back on to cool down for a few miles.

Finally I arrived at Ilya and David’s home in Houston. Ilya is my Godmother’s daughter and she is just (or more) like a cousin. They have a great kid Flinn and two great dogs Pulgas and Wasabi. We had a few beers and a great chat.

Leg 7, day 11 Tuscaloosa to New Orleans, Southernmost point on the trip.

/ antonioyrocinante / 3 Comments

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Confession: I did not go in with high expectations to University of Alabama, you know, Forest Gump and all that. But it really is fantastic! The school spirit, driven by the football team is unique. This brings about a special pride that permeates the whole school, truly impressive. I had a great conversation with Prof. Ana Corbalán, and it is clear they run a great PhD program. Rent is a joke compared to Boston. I’m very excited to apply!

Breakfast was the best coffee I’ve had in days at Chloe’s cup, another pleasant surprise.

After visiting T-mobile again to sort out some phone issues – Collin you are the man! It was back on Rocinante to New Orleans.

It was warm and pleasant, so the ride was very enjoyable. Unfortunately Rocinante started leaking some oil from the air intake, so I stopped at the closest dealer, by now in Mississippi, where I bought a new air filter and changed it. Big shout out to Bubba at Chunky River Harley-Davidson for letting me work on his beautiful parking lot! A few miles later I detected a bad burning smell. I was worried something was going wrong with the new air filter and was about to stop, when I turned a corner and saw a burning truck. Phew!

Although I was pressed for time I took some back roads in rural Mississippi, and boy was it worth it. The sweet smell of fresh cut hay, beautiful farms and homes, rolling hills, tiny villages. What a sunset! Unfortunately that meant a night approach into New Orleans.

Advice for traveling on the cheap: Stop at the state welcome centers when you enter a new state. They have coupons on great hotels.

So I am staying at the cutest hotel in NOLA. The Olde Towne Inn, in the French Quarter for forty Buckaroos! With locked parking for Rocinante.

I walked a little looking for a restaurant for dinner and to stretch my legs. I found a great bar/restaurant where I had a Veggie Po’Boy and met a Tulane grad student in social work, Lea and her roommate Laura who is applying for her PhD in Latin American studies also at Tulane. They participate in the online Couch Surfing program where you connect online with people and you get to crash on their couch. It is free and you get to meet interesting people, something to explore definitely. What a great conversation.

Tomorrow I am meeting  Sophie, a Tulane grad student in Spanish Lit who has volunteered to chat with me, God bless her. I can’t wait!