Open letter to my hosts and friends

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Dear Mark, Jenny, Spencer, the Moons, Quill, Ilya, David, Finn, Pulgas and Wasabi, Lisie, and Catherine,

Opening your home and giving your time to a tired, weary, and poor traveler is one of the highest forms of charity. You all did that for me selflessly, generously and graciously. You made my trip. Sharing your home, Broadway tickets, your food (including leftover Thai food), your beer and old books (David), your knowledge, and your time, made me feel welcome and more importantly, loved, something I badly need in this time of solitude.

Needless to say that my trip without you would have been lacking, empty, and despite the heat, much colder.

You cannot imagine how happy I am to have you as my friends, despite the many different roads that brought us together. There are old friends from university, and from work, family, and old students. You are all wonderful, and I love you. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.

Antonio

Epilogue – for the ride only, the journey continues.

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It has been two weeks since my trip concluded and yes I had to start school right away, but I have also spent this time reflecting on and digesting my trip.

There are several aspects to the trip that I might have to break down into different posts: the trip itself, the university visits, the spiritual trip, etc.

The trip itself was mind blowing. Sitting in our cozy, provincial little corner in New England we don’t know or we forget how great, literally this country is. I was constantly in awe of the endless fields, the huge rivers, one after the other, the interminable trains, the thousands of eighteen wheelers, the miles and miles and miles of roads. The singular beauty of each state. The fact that I could visit eleven universities that offer a PhD in Spanish Literature is awesome.

But that is mostly geographic. More importantly was all the people I met. Everybody was genuinely nice, polite and friendly. Even people that might have been a little defensive or insecure quickly warmed up when I told them of my trip. One of the better examples was in Texas when I walked into a lunch place. I asked if I could have lunch and if we were on such and such road. A couple of tough cowboys in the back of the room asked where I was headin’. When I answered Arkansas, hundreds of miles away, their tone quickly changed and they became very helpful. Later that night at a bar near Texarkana another tough old cowboy asked threateningly “You ain’t from ’round here are you?” Minutes later he was buying me drinks!

That is not to say I did not have any bad encounters. Unfortunately both in Nashville (if I had to listen to bad country music all the time I might turn into a sourpuss too). One with a rude parking valet at a hotel and the other one with a rude (he might have been stoned, or drunk, or both), motel receptionist.

But those two were the exceptions, I had great conversations, and met interesting people pretty much everywhere I stopped and met someone: gas stations, welcome centers, universities, hotels, motels, shops, everywhere. Those people are the real find of the trip.

By the numbers

Altercations: 1 with a parking valet at a Nashville hotel.
Animals: See full report on flora and fauna.
Gas tank fills: 32
Total miles: 4.745
Average Miles per Gallon: 59 (max 68, min 43)
Longest one day ride: 500 (Texarkana to Nashville)
Shortest one day ride: 15 (Durham to Chapel Hill)
Average daily ride: 279 miles
Average price per fill up: $10
Cheapest gas (premium, I pamper Rocinante): $3.43, in Boston.
Most expensive gas: Westport CT, $4.99
Total money spent on gas: $325
Total fuel gallons used: 83.89
Tickets (parking): 2 University of Alabama – they forgive the first one. NYC, for street cleaning.
Tickets (speeding): 0 thanks Rocinante
States visited: CT, NY, NJ, Del, MD, VA, NC, SC, GA, AL, MI, LA, TX, Ark, Tenn, 15
Air filters: 2 Mississippi, Massachusetts
Oil change: 1 Houston
Lost: 3 bandanas (Houston), 1 toothbrush (New Orleans)

Final leg. NYC to Boston

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After another great breakfast with Mark, this time at the Popover Café, it was time for my departure. Not without first realizing that it was street cleaning day and that I had a $65 ticket waiting for me. I guess one ticket in 5000 miles is ok, I should not complain.

It was a beautiful day, so I enjoyed driving up Riverside drive up to the Bronx. From there the pleasant Merritt parkway all the way to New Haven. Once in Massachusetts it was back roads all the way home. A little bit like Dory in Finding Nemo, I was surprised every time I saw a Massachusetts license plate! In Framingham, at Paramount HD I stopped to say hi and for a final air filter change. The guys were great and after buying the filter, they replaced it for free. Thanks guys!

Finally after a mere four hours, 209 miles from NY I was home.

Pantaleon y las visitadoras.

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Mario Vargas Llosa’s Pantaleon y las visitadoras was the perfect book for the trip and I finished it today, a day short of the expected end of the trip. The epistolary style synched perfectly with my traveling and the humor lightened up my time. The book portrays Latin American corruption at its best. The fast paced tempo worked well for my reading intervals. Bravo!

When I was in Houston, David gave me his well read and well worn copy of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. A book I have been wanting to read since it was recommended to me by an English teacher in high school. I started it on the subway today and I’m hooked. I feel like I could have written it if I knew how to write.

NYC revisited

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Mark treated me to a traditional Jewish breakfast (white fish, salmon, eggs, bagels, etc.) at Barney Greengrass. Then after helping him tidy up his apartment, I walked to Fordham to have lunch with my dear friend and old student, Catherine Keller, ’10. We had a great chat and a great meal at a traditional midtown diner. It’s so rewarding to see these kids mature and see their values and criteria grow  After dropping off Catherine it was off to Mark’s gallery in SoHo.

I finally had a decent espresso at The Roasting Plant across the street from Mark’s. After three weeks of American coffee, after three weeks of people thinking Starbucks makes a good espresso.

Dinner was at the übertrendy Barrio Chino a tiny Mexican place around the corner from Mark’s. Dessert was a chocolate coconut cookie thing from the coffee shop next door. And from there to his friend’s triplex attic apartment at the Ansonia, a grand Upper West side building where Babe Ruth lived. We had a lovely glass of wine and a nice chat.

Day 19 – U of Virginia, the victory of Neoclassicism, the best ride of my life part II, NYC

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After a fabulous breakfast at The White Spot, a culinary mecca in Charlottesville. I headed to the Spanish Dept. My first contact was with Zac, a supercool grad student who gave me the “scoop” on UVA. After that I went to see Prof. Andrew Anderson. One would think that after visiting 11 universities I would have become more comfortable talking to these emminences grisses, but no, I choke up, blabber, stutter, and mumble like a kid in the headmaster’s office. Despite the fact that he was really nice, understanding and patient, considering I just walked into his office in what we used to denominate in the business world a “cold call”.

The campus is really head and shoulders. The students super nice, an undergrad basically walked me to the Student Center, way out of her way. And Charlottesville is a village, but a really cool village.

From there I backtracked to the legendary Blue Ridge Mountains, to the historical Shenandoha National Park, to the epic Skyline drive, basically a road that runs over 100 miles on the crest of the mountains in the park. Breathtaking is a literal description of the ride. Throw in three deer conspiring against me by crossing the road in front of me and it becomes double breathtaking. It took me three hours to cover the 100 miles. Rocinante and  I where thrilled and loved this end of college visits treat.

From there it took an hour to DC, where due to rush hour traffic it took another hour to do a quarter of the ring road. Then it was a straight blast to Mark Miller’s Upper West Side apartment, where in his classic hospitable style I had a huge and delicious Greek salad waiting for me. Mark, you are the man!

U Tenn, more great riding, the cleansing power of riding in turns, Davy Crockett and earthquakes.

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Rocinante slept in the hotel’s garage, lucky her. Breakfast was one of the best ones of the trip at Pete’s! University of Tennessee seems like a great place and I had a great chat with Prof. Nuria Cruz-Cámara. It looks like the especialist in Siglo de Oro is retiring soon, so I must keep an eye on that situation.

From there it was back on the road. I took a detour to explore the mythical Smoky Mountains for some awesome riding. When you are riding in the turns it requires 100% of your concentration. You need to see where the turn is going, your speed and banking have to be in synch with the turn. Too slow and it’s boring, too fast and you hurt yourself. So there is a sweet spot. While you are there you can’t be thinking about the layers of narration in Don Quixote.

There I am, on the zone, linking the turns, enjoying the riding, climbing into the Smoky Mountains, when right there is the biggest baked bean factory, I’ve ever seen. Bush baked beans, amazing! I stopped to check out the museum and gift shop. After a deer mom and her baby decided to cross the road right in front of me I returned to the highway, for the rest of the day. Lunch was at Davy Crockett’s birthplace! Delicious pulled pork sandwich. They had a TV going with Fox news going nuts over an earthquake somewhere in Virginia. I love the alarmism. A few miles down the road I actually had to stop for a siesta. Riding through Virginia was impressive, hills and mountains all around for hours and hours, it actually is a bit of a strange feeling, somewhat disquieting.

With no humidity, it cooled down in the evening. I put on my jacket and even my baclava. The last hour approaching Charlottesville was freezing, I had to alternate hugging the engine with my hands for warmth.

I finally made it to University of Virginia. It is beautiful, Jefferson designed the campus which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site! I’m excited about my meeting tomorrow, but sad it is my last visit.