Having just finished my 4th Camino, the Aragonés, here is a bit of a comparison between the Francés, Norte, Primitivo and Aragonés to build on my previous analysis of the Francés and Norte (click here for that post):
I loved the Aragonés! It is wild and beautiful, we were very few pilgrims on the trail -about a dozen or so, most days I did not bump into any pilgrims! There are very few albergues and they are stage distance apart (with few exceptions), so we were the same pilgrims every evening at the end of the stage.
At around 7 days before it joins the Francés at Puente la Reina, it is a bit short. That is the worst thing about the Aragonés.
My all time favorite so far is the Primitivo due to the rugged beauty and the three days right in the middle which are quite hilly and “uncivilized.” It lacks the “spiritual” component of the Francés but makes up for it in natural beauty. At around a dozen days from Oviedo to Santiago it is a perfect “full” Camino.
The Norte is canonically the most beautiful: beautiful beach, beautiful forest, San Sebastian, beautiful beach, beautiful forest, Bilbao, beautiful beach, beautiful forest, Santander, Gijón… you get the idea. Plus, the food. While popular, this route still has far fewer pilgrims than the Francés.
The Francés is like Classic Coke: the most popular, the best known, the oldest (not really, just in modern terms, it was the first one to be rehabilitated in the 80s), and it is the most spiritual: most churches are open -unlike other Caminos, the change of orography makes this Camino “feel” longer. And the cities, with their Gothic cathedrals are impressive: Pamplona, Burgos, and León.
So, my ranking for now is: 1, Primitivo, 2, Aragonés, 3, Norte, and 4, Francés. Of course, you could start your Camino with the Aragonés and then hook up with the Francés, but you would miss crossing the Pyrenees, and the Navarra hills to Pamplona. On the other hand, by then the early crowds will be a bit more spread out…
Yes silly, of course I am thinking of next year’s Camino, but you will have to stay tuned to this blog for more!
Years ago, it must have been in a thrift shop in Chapel Hill I bought a “Monet and the Mediterranean” Exhibition poster; a windswept pine tree overlooking the sea. I loved it because it reminded me of the Mediterranean. I could smell the pine trees and the sea, I could hear the deafening song of the cicadas, feel the heat on my body, and taste the thousand flavors that unite this Mare nostrum.
Why is this region the cradle of Western civilization? Why is this diet considered the best in the world – olive oil, a little wine, veggies, and fish? Why is the Mediterranean lifestyle so admired and aspired to? In short, why is this region so special?
I am not a specialist, not an expert, in fact I have no clue, although I do have some theories: Ancient Babylonian culture lacked the convenience of an ocean, so slowly a migration occurred -think of Abraham- to the West, to the Med, et voilà! The rest is history, you are welcome.
Going back to the Mediterranean every year is a blessing and a pleasure for me. I feel at home in Mallorca or Greece, in Valencia or anyplace united by these waters. This year mom invited us again to spend a few days in her favorite spot, Camp de Mar, a small “cala” inlet where we have been going for decades! It did not disappoint amazing food, great swims in the ocean with my nephew and nieces, runs in the pine trees, overall, another memorable holiday.
So, the other day I was in the middle of the desolate province of Soria with my dear friend Jaime, as one does, and we decided to explore the Yacimiento y Museo Paleontológico de Ambrona in search of Wolly mammoth bones.
Who knows what the middle of the province of Soria looked like in the Pleistocene, but back in the 19th Century some Belgian dude conducting channeling work for a nearby train station discovered the first bones. Amateur anthropologist and wealthy empresario the Marqués de Cerralbo took an interest and started the first serious expedition. There were a few other expeditions and eventually a small museum was created.
Jaime and I arrived late and the museum was closed, but we did get to see the Woolly mammoth replica and to walk around to conduct our own -fruitless- search for mammoth bones. Fortunately, we visited during the longest days of the year so we could walk around a bit. After our expedition we decided to celebrate with dinner in not too far Medinaceli, which is a beautiful village!!
After six Caminos I am willing to share one of my favorite hacks, which I have talked about in passing in my Camino chronicles but have never written a full post on.
After a day of hiking with a heavy backpack, one of the best -and fastest- ways of reducing, indeed eliminating, bodily inflammation is a good dip in cold water. So, when I get to the albergue I always ask the hospitalero about available local dips: streams, pools, rivers.
Sometimes there is a little stream running near the albergue where all you can do is dip your legs, on the Camino del Norte you occasionally have the privilege of stopping on the beach, and some towns and villages have rivers and streams where you can have a chilly dip.
On my recent Camino Aragonés, the Aragón River was flowing exceptionally big, fast, and muddy due to the recent rains, so I was unable to dip in Sangüesa. Fortunately, Jaca, Sangüesa, and Monreal all had amazing and inviting municipal pools waiting for me! Even though they were not the TikTok trendy Wim Hof ice baths, they still were refreshing and cool and offered a great opportunity to stretch and cool down.
Special mention goes to the Jaca facility where for 7 Euro I got the Olympic pool, plus Swedish sauna, steam bath, jacuzzi, water jets, etc. Amazing, the best 7 Euros I have spent on the Camino!
So next time you go on the Camino, pack a swimsuit. You are welcome.
Last year’s Camino Primitivo Albergue Review was quite well received and is in my top 10 posts this year, so I have decided to do the same with the albergues on the Camino Aragonés which I just finished. Like I did last year I will then post the reviews on Google Maps to share the knowledge.
Notice the Camino Francés por Aragón
Somport – Albergue Aysa 2,5/5 stars
This is a tricky one. It does double duty as a high mountain refuge and for pilgrims. It sits feet, yards away from the French Border, and that is all you will find there besides a road maintenance shed and the closed down Customs building. The views are amazing, and it is the “unofficial” start of the Camino Aragonés, so you do not have much of a choice. Having said that, Pedro and his son Marc are not the most hospitable hospitaliers. Pedro had another pilgrim and I wait half an hour in a hallway while he prepared breakfasts; he could have invited us to at least sit down with a cup of coffee, or -and this might be pushing it- prepare our breakfast and then continue preparing everybody else’s breakfast since they all arrived much later. It is also a bit on the expensive side at Euro 27… supply and demand I guess when you are the only albergue at the top of the mountain….
Jaca – Municipal Albergue 4.5/5 stars
Marisol is a sweetheart hospitalier! The albergue checks all the boxes for a correct. large, urban albergue: right downtown, clean, good bathrooms, ample kitchen, and dining room, it even has a cute little garden. And the aforementioned Marisol knows everything about Jaca! A couple of pluses are no bunk beds, yeay! The beds are paired up with a night table in between and you can store your pack under the bed (this is a bit cumbersome since you have to move the mattress and lift the board to access the space, nobody I saw used this feature). The only thing missing from this albergue was a washer/drier, which in an urban, public albergue is expected, the only thing missing for the full five stars! 11 Euro.
Arrés – Municipal albergue managed by volunteers. 5 stars
After a beautiful but looong climb you will suddenly hit this tiny, ancient, stone village. The albergue is the first building you will see; it is housed in an ancient stone building, carved into the stone -in fact, the toilets on the bottom floor have exposed rock! I was lucky to have Ray El Peregrino as the volunteer hospitalier, this guy is a rock star pilgrim who has walked every Camino!! And he cooked a great dinner: Hearty vegetable soup and tortilla española packed with onion, peppers, and chorizo. The albergue is fairly basic, but that is expected in a tiny, medieval village in the middle of nowhere. The hospitalier gives the pilgrims a tour of the tiny church before the community style dinner. Oh, and it is a “donativo” albergue, meaning that you put into the box what you can/want (the going rate for municipal albergues is around Euro 11, so that is about how much you should give, if you can, a little bit more if you consider that dinner and breakfast are included).
Ruesta – 3 stars
Ok, this is a good one: In the 1960s the government built a dam, flooding the fields where the good people of Ruesta earned their living from, so they were forced to leave, abandoning a beautiful medieval stone village. In 1988, the local government leased the village to the trade union federation CGT (Confederación General de Trabajadores), a bit of an anarcho-syndicalist trade union, with the condition that they rebuild, and eventually repopulate the village. So, guess who runs the local albergue? You guessed it the folks from the CGT, who, regardless of your political viewpoints, are really nice and sweet. I had a large room with an even bigger balcony where I was able to tie my rope and sun dry all my clothes! Dinner was community style with two options for appetizer and entrée (I had vegetarian lentils and the chicken, both delicious) and a few options for dessert. The one black spot was breakfast: a shrink-wrapped piece of bread with a patty of jam and one of butter, a coffee -probably made the night before and covered with a saucer, and the cheapest available tetra-brik orange juice. For Euro 4, breakfast could have included some cold cuts, etc.
Sanguesa – Municipal Albergue 5 stars
This is a no-nonsense, basic but correct albergue, and the first with a washer/drier! Maybe because the Navarra government cares just a bit more of their pilgrims than the Aragón one (let’s see if they get the hint…). This albergue, while small with 14 beds and (only two of them are bunks) is right downtown, has amazing showers, and a solid kitchen. The only problem is that there are more pilgrims than keys (probably because pilgrims inadvertently take them) so we had to always be knocking on the door, or asking pilgrims if they had a key!
Monreal – Private 4,5 stars (you have to be at the albergue at 5pm for your paperwork)
High up on a hill, and with a killer set of stone stairs to kill you off before you get to the door of this albergue, it is a perfectly lovely place. Renovated by the local trade school, it has exposed wooden beams. Aura the hospitalier is nice and generous with her advice and local knowledge, she also owns one of the two local bars/cafés. Unfortunately, the albergue is owned by an investment company in Pamplona so Aura is only there for a while each day to collect the cash and take a photo of your id.
Honorable mention:
Albergue Restaurante de Artieda
We stopped for our midday snack here and what a beauty this place is: hanging on the edge of the hill overlooking the Pyrenees. It is a private albergue with the best sandwich I remember having in a long time!
“We should take wandering outdoor walks, so that the mind might be nourished and refreshed by the open air and deep breathing.” — Seneca
Somebody recently asked me what my happy place was, the answer was easy: walking on the Camino. I just walked my fourth.
The Camino Aragonés, is the route taken by pilgrims from the South of France, Italy, and Eastern Europe. In France it is known as the way of Toulouse since that was the meeting point of all the Southern European ways.
This choice was personal for me, for although there are many Caminos to choose from, my grandfather, Antonio Balsón was from Aragón, which gave this Camino a bit more meaning for me.
After two trains and two buses I arrived at the high mountain refuge of Somport -literally on the French border. I walked around France a bit, looking to get my credencial stamped but there was nobody around.
Massive rain the next morning forced me to walk down the mountain on the road instead of the path since this was basically washed out by the rain. Fortunately, only about 4 cars passed in two hours.
The descent was beautiful despite the rain and walking on the road, so on a sunny day on the path it must be glorious. The Camino passes an old railroad tunnel that connected Spain to France, but it was closed in the 70’s (there are now plans to re-open it). There is an amazing old station which has now been refurbished as a fancy hotel. The end of the stage was in Jaca, ancient capital of Aragón with its old churches and fort. I enjoyed a great swim and a bit of a spa at the municipal pool, I will write another post on that…
After the first day’s descent the next few days hiking was on beautiful rolling hills, through forests and wheat fields. Since last year’s Camino Primitivo Albergue Review gets a lot of hits, I will also write a dedicated post to reviewing the albergues on the Aragonés, stay tuned.
A few days into the Camino, it crosses into Navarra, where food is even more idolized than in Aragón, making for glorious midday snacks!
After six stages the Camino merges into the French Way. But although this Camino is short, it is intense and beautiful. We were about 10 pilgrims on the Camino, so we basically got to know each other at the albergue stops. Most days there is only one end of stage village, and that village only has one albergue so your options as a pilgrim are fairly limited. It is also quite rugged with many long stretches of hiking between villages, which forces you to plan your snacks and water well, but it also makes for good walking. I loved this Camino for its ruggedness, and it has automatically moved up to be my second favorite after the Primitivo.
It is the long stretches of walking that cleanse your mind and your soul. There is nothing else to do but walk, every day. My average day on the trail was 7 hours and a half (27,3 km / about 17 miles average per day for a total of around 164km, just over 100 miles), so you have time to think, meditate, sing, look at the birds and the scenery, it is a total break. This is not a secret, even the ancient romans knew this as the quote by Seneca at the beginning show.
Since I already walked the French way in 2017, and I was somewhat pressed for time I stopped at Puente la Reina and made Santa María de Eunate my “spiritual” ending, in lieu of the Cathedral at Santiago.
As everybody knows, books are living creatures, and as such, they have their own lives. This is the story of a wonderful book.
Luis Correa-Díaz came into my life socially, during a visit to Chapel Hill a couple of years ago. Knowing that he is from Chile, when saw an old -ancient- National Geographic with the main story on Chile, I did not hesitate to send it to him, as a bit of a nostalgic curiosity. What I did not expect was that he was going to pay back that silly gesture by sending me his latest book of poems: Valparaíso, puerto principal.
I treasured this book, waiting for the right time to dive in, which was during my recent silence and meditation retreat (see previous post). As I took the book out to the monastery’s cloister garden, I was filled with excitement. Before digging in, that anticipation of starting a new book, I was called to the fountain… ¿how about some photos for the blog? So, I got clicking, until, in and adventurous and risky pose, the book was blown into the fountain (yes, I know you were expecting that, I did too, but I took my chances…)
A quick rescue and a rush to the monastery kitchen soon had the book in the microwave oven for an ER intervention. Coming out steaming hot -literally- I blew the steam out making sure the words stayed put on the page. This had to be done a few times to ensure the book dried quickly. It survived, albeit with stiff, wavy pages that say: “I had an adventure” and “my owner is an idiot”.
What I love about Correa-Díaz´s writing is that it appears casual, carefree, with all sorts of English words, Millennial English words -even emoticons thrown in. But as those happy-go-lucky words sink in you see, no, you notice the feeling, the emotion of those words. In this case, his beloved Valparaiso as a home he no longer lives in (exactly how I feel about my Madrid). His writing is peppered with references to Teilhard de Chardin or Madonna, to the local coffee shops, where you can almost smell the coffee suffusing from the old walls, plus all the local references that one has to be a local to identify, reminiscent of the best Gabriel García Márquez.
This book will make you miss Valparaíso, even if, like me, you have never been there. This is what the Portuguese and Brazilians call saudade, or the Gallegos morriña (you can read about that feeling here), there is no comparable word in English, sorry.
Unless, of course, you are a Zen master or a monk or a nun. This is my third such retreat, but my last time here was in February of 2020, the week right before the Covid lockdown. Since then, I started a new job far away in Florida which means I only come to Spain for the holidays and that time is pretty busy with family, friends, chores, etc. and although I had been meaning to get out here, things do not happen unless you make the commitment, so here I am.
El Paular monastery is an ancient (1390) Medieval monastery built in the confluence of two or three streams where a hermit used to live. The monastery was originally of the Carthusian order, but it got dismantled in the 19th Century and re-started again in 1948 under the Benedictine order. It currently has eleven monks, which is a couple more than when I was last here!
The journey here brings you over the mighty Guadarrama mountains, specifically the 2000mt Navacerrada pass. That is your first threshold, leaving Madrid far away. The descent on the other side is your second signal that you are entering a new world. And then, there you are, face to face with what used to be a massive monastery, which is now a fraction of what it once was, but still beautiful and awe inspiring.
The first thing you notice stepping into the cloister is the silence, there are no TVs, radios, music, nothing other than the birds chirping. Then you notice the rhythm, the pace. There is no rush here, everything works pretty much the same way it did over six centuries ago. Then you notice the massive 52 Vicente Carducho paintings depicting the history of the Carthusian order!
As for the retreat, you get a cell which is a perfectly nice room with a bed and a desk, and a bathroom with great water pressure and even better views of the mountains!
You are encouraged to pray with the monks five times a day:
6:30 Maitines
8:00 Laudes before breakfast
2:00 Sexta before lunch
8:00 Vísperas before dinner
10:00 Completas
One does not talk with the monks unless the monks talk to you, which when they do is briefly. You eat your meals in silence in the refectory -well, there is a reader, yesterday they were reading Merton’s biography!
Other than that, you are free to go walking in the mountains, or to the village a couple of miles away, but that kind of breaks the silence –unless you did not pack enough socks and you have to venture into the village to get some. You spend most of the day reading, writing, meditating.
The abbot is my spiritual director, so when I come, we spend some time talking. Padre Joaquín, like all the monks emanates spirituality, patience, love. Being in the presence of the monks brings down your blood pressure, after all these guys have the key to happiness. It is scientifically proven that monks are the happiest people in the world!
Yes, I have my phone, but it spends a lot of time just sitting in my cell. I take it with me on my walks mostly so I can take photos. This is the beginning of feeling free… (to be continued)
You do not have to dig too deep to realize that a -or the- key factor in the situation of the planet today boils down to education. We are polarized politically: education, we have massive environmental challenges: education, there is disparate wealth distribution: education, and so on, and so on. Education is not only my métier, but also something I obsess over; how can I improve my craft? How can I improve my school? How can I better serve and teach my students?
I recently had the opportunity to listen to Prof. Matthew Kraft from Brown University deliver a conference on the topic: “Lessons from a decade of reforms on the teacher evaluation system in the US”. The conference was held at the great Fundación Ramón Areces in Madrid.
This foundation dedicated exclusively to the promotion of science in all its aspects is the non-profit of the Corte Ingles retail giant. They are constantly inviting guest speakers, organizing conferences, funding research and scholarships, etc. The Fundación has a great building in the leafy residential Viso neighborhood of Madrid.
Prof. Kraft spoke about the sad failure of Obama´s “Race to the Top” education program from the standpoint of teacher evaluations in the public high school system. (You can check out some of the slides, and a link to the conference, and the data below if you want the nitty gritty).
At the end of the day, Kraft’s conclusions are that we need to not just focus on teacher evaluations, but on the whole school ecosystem if you want success. Key takeaways are the importance of mentors and coaches for teachers, as well as focusing on the health of the school’s culture and environment. Kraft pointed out unseen factors like the importance of socioemotional wellbeing, in school performance.
It was great to hear Prof. Kraft’s holistic and organic approach to improving education – from a hard-core quantitative data background! something we continue to learn and to implement, and something politicians and school administrators need to appreciate.
Oh, some tidbits: Prof. Kraft did his whole presentation in perfect Spanish! He mentioned The Widget Effect published in 2009, as well as Time magazine Dec. 8, 2008 article How to Fix America’s Schools…
If you pay attention and follow this blog you will notice that the main topics covered are The Camino, academics and education, Literature, art and culture, and then a lot of random thoughts and stuff.
This reflects who I am, of what drives me, what makes me tick. And as such it is -I guess- remarkably reliable. The reason for my passion for art and culture lies in the emotions involved and invoked by art.
Fortunately, a lot of art is now accessible from the comfort of your home: film, books, and so forth. But, a lot of art has to be shared, you have to get out to experience it. I am blessed to live near Palm Beach, which is -I have said this before- an oasis of art and culture in this suburban wasteland that is South Florida.
The Norton Museum gets a lot of attention in this blog because it is a jewel of a place which I love. I recently went to see their latest addition: John Singer Sargent’s painting of Amy Phipps Guest. It is a beautiful painting with illumination reminiscent of Sorolla (they were contemporaries and not only did their careers overlap, their technique is eerily similar).
Another cultural treasure of Palm Beach is the Palm Beach Symphony, which I saw perform Handel’s Messiah in December. I recently saw them perform their season finale, at the Kravis Center, their “home”, which included Mozart’s Piano Concerto #23, Franck Symphony in D minor, and Hailstork’s Monuments for solo trombone
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